Mummies, modern art, Danish design, extraordinary food, an unexpected dip in the harbour — and one rather expensive drive to Sweden. Five days in Copenhagen proved one thing: we needed more time.
There are some cities you visit and feel satisfied that you’ve “done” them. Copenhagen is most definitely not one of those cities. Five days here and I felt as though I’d barely scratched its impeccably designed surface. Centuries-old palaces sit comfortably beside cutting-edge architecture, bicycles seem to outnumber sensible shoes, and Michelin-worthy food feels almost commonplace. Not to mention, heavenly open-faced sandwiches at every corner! Even their public transit offers a sightseeing route by water. And then there are the Danes themselves, who seem to have figured out something the rest of us are still working on: how to work, live, eat, exercise and enjoy yourself without turning any of it into a competitive sport.
A Hotel That Actually Feels Like Copenhagen
Our home for the five days was the Copenhagen Marriott Hotel, perched directly on the waterfront and celebrating its 25th anniversary this year. The property opened in September 2001 as the first Marriott in Scandinavia. With 406 rooms, it is a substantial hotel, but size isn’t really the story. The view is. Our room looked directly onto the canal, and I stayed up far later than I should have, simply sitting by the window and watching Copenhagen go by. The hotel has been transforming since 2022, with its upper floors, Executive Lounge, and ground-floor public spaces already renovated. Another phase of guest-room renovations is planned. Most interestingly, they’ve been moving away from the old international-hotel formula—where Copenhagen could look remarkably similar to Chicago, Singapore or London—and embracing its location. The renovated rooms have a distinctly Scandinavian sensibility: oak panelling, sandy-grey carpeting, muted natural colours and locally commissioned artwork. Even the palette takes its cues from the waterfront, beaches and bridges outside. The hotel’s guiding idea has been “closeness to water.”
Downstairs, Copenhagen Pier Bar and the hotel’s restaurant and terrace open directly toward the canal, deliberately blurring the line between hotel and city. The Pier Bar welcomes hotel guests and locals for cocktails, snacks and lunch overlooking the harbour. They want Copenhageners inside as much as they want international guests venturing out. That’s an important distinction. The hotel’s general manager told me that, over the coming decade, exceptional hospitality will increasingly be about local experience and authenticity—staying somewhere that actually connects you to the place you’ve travelled thousands of kilometres to experience.
Take the Plunge
Nowhere is the Marriott’s connection to Copenhagen more literal than outside its front door. People swim here. Copenhageners routinely cycle to the waterfront, stop for a dip and continue with their day. In cooler weather, sauna and cold-water bathing become part of the ritual. And yes, some Danes appear to regard bathing suits as entirely optional. Being a somewhat more modest North American, I kept my fashionable floral-patterned trunks on.
But jump in I did.
That refreshing plunge from the pier outside the Marriott became one of my favourite experiences of the trip. There’s something wonderfully liberating about leaving a five-star hotel in a bathrobe and jumping into the same harbour you’re admiring from your room. The hotel even keeps robes readily available for guests who want to embrace the experience. This isn’t some manufactured “authentic Copenhagen experience” dreamt up in a marketing meeting. Locals are doing it right alongside you.
Copenhagen May Have Cracked the Work-Life Code
Watching Copenhageners provides its own form of sightseeing. People bicycle everywhere. They run along the waterfront. They kayak. They swim before work. And then, apparently, they actually go home from work. The hotel’s GM explained that Denmark’s working culture emphasizes efficiency and balance rather than the North American badge of honour of announcing, “I was at the office until eight last night.” The idea is remarkably sensible: get your work done, go home, enjoy your life and return refreshed enough to do your job properly again tomorrow. Could someone please send the memo across the Atlantic?
Buy the Copenhagen Card
One of our smartest purchases was the 72-hour Copenhagen Card Discover. If you’re planning to museum-hop as enthusiastically as we did, it’s wonderfully convenient. The card currently includes admission to more than 80 attractions and unlimited public transportation throughout the Copenhagen Capital Region — metro, buses, trains and, best of all, harbour buses. Harbour buses! Why sit underground when your public transportation can give you a waterfront tour of Copenhagen?
If you See Only One Thing…
I know you’re not supposed to make declarations like this in travel writing. I’m making one anyway. Do not miss the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Located north of Copenhagen in Humlebæk — and reachable using the transportation included with the Copenhagen Card Discover — Louisiana is one of those rare museums where the setting, architecture, landscape and art become inseparable. The sculpture garden overlooking the Øresund alone is worth the journey. Give yourself time. Then give yourself more time.
Mummies! My Happy Place
Another favourite was the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. Unfortunately, we hadn’t allotted nearly enough time for it. I adore everything Ancient Egypt, so show me a mummy and whatever carefully planned itinerary I had is essentially over. The Egyptian collection is fascinating, and I could happily have disappeared inside the museum for hours. And don’t leave without wandering outside to find Rodin’s The Thinker in the garden. Next trip: at least half a day. possibly longer if there are mummies involved.
Danish Design: Resistance Is Futile
Designmuseum Danmark is another treat to wander through. You begin to understand why Danish design has exerted such an extraordinary influence internationally — and you may also begin mentally redesigning your entire home. Which brings me to HAY House. A visit is mandatory for design lovers. Chairs, lighting, tables, accessories and wonderfully clever objects you didn’t know you needed until Copenhagen convinced you otherwise. Then there’s Georg Jensen, where spectacularly designed silver earrings provided a rather more portable piece of Denmark. For those who take their retail therapy seriously, make time for Østergade and the surrounding luxury-shopping district. Danish design sits alongside major international houses, and your credit card may need a restorative harbour swim afterwards.
VAT Refund: Consider Yourself Warned
All that shopping brings me to one Copenhagen experience I would happily have skipped: trying to get the VAT refund when leaving Denmark. Throughout the shopping districts you’ll see signs reminding non-EU visitors that they may be eligible to reclaim VAT on qualifying purchases when leaving the EU. Wonderful, we thought. Save the paperwork, arrive at the airport early and collect some money back. If only. We deliberately arrived early at Copenhagen Airport to deal with it. At the refund counter, the couple ahead of us were told they were too early and needed to return within four hours of their flight. Thankfully, we were within that window. We’d already checked in and still had about three hours before takeoff. When our turn arrived, we were curtly informed that we were missing a customs stamp. “You need to go to Customs first.” Off we went in search of Customs, found the office and joined another line. By this point, any residual hygge from the previous five days was rapidly evaporating. Finally, it was our turn. Did we have the goods with us? Yes, I said. The paperwork was examined. Questions were asked. More examining. More questions. Then came the Georg Jensen earrings. “Show me the earrings.” Well, the earrings were packed — along with the art we’d bought, our purchases from HAY and, yes, even a large and heavy welcome mat. These are not exactly things one naturally thinks to stuff into a carry-on for an international flight. That was the problem. We were told we needed to present the goods to Customs before checking our luggage. Papers back across the counter. Next!
And that was that. After five days of extraordinary Danish hospitality, it was unfortunately not the warmest farewell.
So here’s the tip I wish someone had given us: if you’re planning to claim a VAT refund, don’t simply assume arriving at the airport early with your receipts and forms is enough. Find out exactly where Customs is, what documentation you need and, crucially, keep the qualifying purchases accessible so they can be inspected before you check your luggage.
Consider yourself forewarned — and perhaps keep those Georg Jensen earrings in your carry-on.
Palaces and Opera
Amalienborg Palace is, of course, a must. But here’s the trick: remember to turn around. Across the water, Copenhagen’s Opera House commands the harbour. The view from Amalienborg is spectacular, but make time to cross the canal and see it up close. Copenhagen rewards looking in both directions. The Danish Architecture Center was another great discovery during a stroll along the canal from our hotel. The BLOX building itself is worth seeing before you even get to what’s inside. Architecture isn’t merely something Copenhagen displays in museums. The entire city feels like an ongoing conversation between old and new.
Tivoli: I’m Glad We Went…
I’m going to say something potentially sacrilegious. I wasn’t completely bowled over. But should you go? Absolutely. It’s historic, atmospheric and charming, and I imagine it’s especially magical with children. Wander through, ride something if you’re inclined, enjoy the gardens and appreciate that you’re visiting one of the world’s most famous amusement parks. Just don’t necessarily make it the centrepiece of your entire Copenhagen experience.
Nyhavn: Get the Picture
Of course you are going to Nyhavn. You need the photograph. Colourful buildings, boats, canal = Copenhagen perfection. You and approximately 47 million other people will have exactly the same idea. Prepare to battle the crowds, whatever the weather or time of day, take the compulsory Instagram shot, and enjoy yourself. Touristy but completely worth seeing!
The Little Mermaid Is…Little
She’s iconic and charming. She’s also exactly what the name promises. Little. Go see her and take your picture. Enjoy the setting, but don’t arrive expecting the Eiffel Tower.
Dinner, Courtesy of Instagram Serendipity
Then came one of those completely unplanned travel moments that became a highlight. Our dear friends from California happened to be in Copenhagen at exactly the same time. How did we discover this? Instagram, naturally. Suddenly we were joining (shout-out to) Kirsten & Al, Zia, Scarlet and hubby’s godson, Leo, for dinner at Restaurant Koefoed. Love you, guys!
Koefoed is inspired by the Danish island of Bornholm and sources many of its ingredients from farms there. The restaurant itself occupies a former coal cellar, with whitewashed arches and vaulted spaces inspired by Bornholm’s famous round churches. Our tasting menu was extraordinary — refined Danish cuisine without losing the sense of place that made it interesting in the first place. The food was wonderful, but the company made it unforgettable.
And What About Noma?
Ah, yes. Noma and Barr were supposed to be part of this story, but they need their own column. There is simply too much to say, so look for a separate Haute piece coming soon.
GoBoat? Maybe Not.
We had planned to rent a GoBoat and explore the harbour ourselves. Unfortunately, our interaction at the booth wasn’t exactly overflowing with hygge. We mentioned that we were booking through our Copenhagen Card and, somehow, nothing suitable appeared to be available within our window. Could have been bad timing. Could have been my outfit. Either way, the young man helping us wasn’t particularly welcoming, and Copenhagen has far too many other wonderful things to do to waste vacation time feeling annoyed. We skipped it. No regrets.
Escape to Dragør
One of the unexpected pleasures of having a car was visiting Dragør, the ridiculously charming old fishing village close to Copenhagen. This is the sort of place where you slow down almost immediately. Historic yellow houses, cobbled streets, a harbour and the feeling that Copenhagen’s urban energy has suddenly slipped several gears. It’s an easy escape from the city and absolutely worth adding if you have the time.
Sweden for Lunch? Read This First.
Then we had an idea. Malmö is right there. Sweden! How could we not? It’s only around a 45-minute drive from Copenhagen, crossing the spectacular Øresund Bridge, and there’s something undeniably fun about having breakfast in Denmark and wandering around another country that afternoon. What we hadn’t fully appreciated was the toll. For 2026, the regular toll-station price for a passenger car is DKK 520 each way($225 CDN total); discounted options are available if arranged in advance. Translation: that spontaneous little drive to Sweden can become a rather expensive afternoon remarkably quickly. We found out the hard way. You’re welcome.
Also worth knowing: Malmö is outside the Copenhagen Card’s transportation area. Would I still visit Malmö? Yes. Would I investigate the train or buy discounted bridge tickets before casually driving across next time? Also yes.
Luxury Meets Sustainability
One aspect of the Marriott that particularly impressed me was how it incorporates sustainability without making the guest experience feel austere. The hotel uses canal water as part of its heating and cooling system, while its ownership group generates a portion of its energy from solar panels at Copenhagen’s Bella Center complex. There are little decisions, too. Instead of automatically stocking every room with disposable bottled water, the hotel points guests toward Copenhagen’s excellent tap water. It has also reconsidered the traditional fully stocked mini-bar, avoiding the need to keep one refrigerated around the clock in every room. During renovations, the hotel has also considered what to retain rather than automatically rip out and discard. One of my favourite examples of Copenhagen’s ability to combine luxury with environmental responsibility is GreenKayak. The concept is brilliant: borrow a kayak and, in exchange, collect rubbish from the waterways as you paddle. The hotel has even woven the experience into special Bonvoy packages that pair a stay in its Royal Suite with a chef-led trip to a local food market, a private meal, and a GreenKayak outing. Luxury travel and picking garbage out of the harbour in the same itinerary? Strangely, it makes perfect Copenhagen sense.
Five Days Wasn’t Enough
What stayed with me wasn’t any single palace, museum, meal or impeccably designed chair. It was the lifestyle. Copenhagen seems to understand that luxury doesn’t always mean more. Sometimes it’s having time, leaving the office early enough to enjoy your family, commuting by bicycle instead of sitting in traffic and swimming in the harbour before breakfast. And sometimes it’s sitting at your hotel window far too late at night, ignoring the television completely because Copenhagen itself is putting on a better show. Five days gave us mummies and modern art, Rodin and royal palaces, tasting menus and silver earrings. We found a fishing village, drove to Sweden, discovered old friends were in town through Instagram and jumped—gloriously—into the harbour. We didn’t see everything. Not even close. Which may be the best possible reason to return.
Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen — we’re not finished with you yet.
Coming soon: Noma and Barr. Because they deserve a story all their own.
